Before You Can Say a Fashion Trend “Is The New Black”, It’s Out of Stock and Out of Style
As our lifespans get longer, the lifespan of our things is getting shorter and shorter. Industrialization long ago began with the creation of mass-produced goods, occurring in tandem with the introduction of leisure time and the growth of the middle class. In the past century, fashion has evolved greatly as iconic designers and celebrities have begun new eras of style, and social media has popularized trends of streetwear. Nowadays, fashion choices are limitless. Run to a mall or click on an online store to find a bedazzled prom dress, a casual neutral-toned sweatsuit, a designer purse, or a pair of discount running sneakers. However, today’s flourishing fashion landscape has come at a great environmental price.
In the last few decades, fast fashion brands have risen to great popularity. Brands such as Zara, Forever 21, and H&M have popped up in every mall outlet, and online sites such as Fashion Nova, Boohoo, Missguided, Nasty Gal, and Shein have become all the rage through social media. Fast fashion flaunts many appealing benefits; cheap prices, thousands of choices, and speedy production to keep up with the latest trends. Also, these brands often recruit celebrities and influencers for promotion; for example, Fashion Nova's “Nova ambassadors” include Cardi B, Amber Rose, and Janet Guzman.
The hidden side of fast fashion is what occurs behind the scenes of great deals and accessibility. Factory workers overseas, who are often underpaid youths performing dangerous labor, are the source of these brands’ success. Developing countries are the home of these workers; in countries such as Argentina, Bangladesh, Indonesia, Vietnam, and the Philippines, forced labor is evident, and young women under the age of 24 are responsible for making 80% of fast fashion apparel. This intensive work also takes place in dilapidated conditions, where little to no concern is given to worker safety. This is evidenced by a 2013 factory collapse in Dhaka, Bangladesh, where 1,134 workers were killed and another 2,500 suffered lasting injuries.
2013 Fast Fashion Factory Collapse in Dhaka, Bangladesh. Source: New York Times
If we look at environmental impacts, we can see that fast fashion produces 10% of global carbon emissions, equivalent to that of the European Union. What’s more, the United Nations predicts textile emissions to shoot up 60% by 2030. In addition, dying and finishing, yarn preparation, and fiber manufacturing are also pollutive impacts of the fast fashion industry, coupled with their reliance on fossil fuel energy use. Producing a single cotton shirt and pair of jeans uses 2700 gallons of water, and waste from textile dyes is often dumped into freshwater ecosystems. Synthetic fibers, including polyester, nylon, and acrylic, take hundreds of years to degrade and generate 35% of all microplastics.
It’s getting to be common knowledge that fast fashion isn’t the most sustainable method of purchasing clothes. However, the ever-changing trend cycle of today’s fashion industry makes many feel that they have no other place to turn. What inspired me to write this blog was the constant progression of ‘microtrends’ on social media, where an online store or a certain piece has an insane spike in popularity for several weeks before disappearing completely. For example, after a Tiktok influencer with six million followers posts a new patterned dress, it becomes sold out in minutes; however, two weeks later, the famed dress is nowhere to be seen. Huge hauls from online fast fashion brands have resulted from the abundance of microtrends as well. To keep up with the weekly waves of change, huge hauls ordered from Shein fill my media feeds, each showcasing 40 different outfits individually wrapped in plastic in one big delivery box.
Example of a Fast Fashion Haul on Social Media. Source: Youtube
Overall, the irresistibility of fast fashion stems from how disposable today’s society really is. 41% of 18-25-year-olds frown upon wearing the same outfit out twice, which leads to garments just weeks or months old already being discarded forever. Therefore, it’s no surprise that 80 billion pieces of clothing are consumed globally each year, which is a 400% increase from twenty years prior. When it comes down to it, the majority of shoppers place the greatest value on affordable and available items. If fast fashion is presented as the only viable option to achieve these two goals, why look anywhere else?
Despite the appeals of fast fashion, public opinion and outcry against its unsafe labor practices and detrimental impact on the environment do have an effect. Secondhand shopping, or thrifting, is also growing in popularity among teens and is seen as a great way to discover your own style and find unique pieces. Online sellers such as ThredUp, Poshmark, and Depop also prioritize buying secondhand and supporting much more sustainable small businesses. In terms of big fast fashion producers, certain brands, including H&M, have launched sustainable mission statements to combat their previous environmental impact. While these statements have been received with criticism for their legitimacy, reforms involving the use of renewable electricity in stores, clothing recycling programs, and managing excess inventory can be extremely helpful. Finally, governments are being pressured to regulate fast fashion reforms—for instance, French President Emmanuel Macron has set an example by partnering with 150 clothing brands to improve their sustainability.
